Arriving from Brooklyn in the late 1990's, I knew that someday Smith Island would be my home. The island had a sense of timelessness, a feeling of forgottenness—something I had never encountered, and it drew me close.
Shortly after my first visit, I purchased a house overlooking the “guts” leading to the bay. A simple old 19th century stick built house on a back road with few inhabitants. I learned that a woman named Alice Middleton had lived and died here, and had been visited by a writer traveling the U.S., who eventually wrote “Blue Highways”. William Least Heat-Moon dedicated an entire chapter to Smith Island, and mentioned his overnight stay at Alice's “Scud In”.
There are a few B&B's here on Smith Island where you can stay, kayaks and bicycles to rent, cruises on the bay, arrowhead hunting on the beaches, and, of course, coffee to take home from Smith island Beans!
"I put my duffel over my shoulder and took off down the dirt lanes, under a steeple, toward the west side of the village, to "Scud In," a three-story, red-shingled house overlooking an intricate network of coves and guts in a marsh that stretched so far I couldn't see the bay."
- William Least Heat Moon